Green Lasagna Bolognese

  

A long time ago when I first tasted Green Lasagna in Bologna, Italy, I really enjoyed it and have been a big fan ever since. Using spinach pasta and white bechamel sauce ("Balasmella," instead of using tomato sauce) makes for a nice spring-like look and a fresh and light taste. Creamy Balasmella and Italian cheeses together are truly the “Holy trinity.” I was told green lasagna is classic and very popular in Bologna. 

For this recipe I make the Meat Sauce first, and then the Balasmella (cream sauce), and set both aside in a warm place. Then I work on the pasta sheets. If you can find fresh green pasta sheets, it saves time, but it's nice to make your own pasta. Using a standing mixer, such as Kitchen Aid, can make it easier.  Serve the Lasagna with a garden salad and rustic bread such as Ciabatta or Focaccia. For wine I recommend Chianti (aka Sangiovese) from Tuscany, Valpolicella from Veneto, or Barbera from Piedmonte (all reds); or a white such as Soave, Pinot Bianco or Sauvignon Blanc.

Green Lasagna alla Bolognese

8-10 Servings (using a 9-by-13 inch baking dish)

Meat Sauce (makes about 4 cups):

1 ounce dried porcini mushroom, soaked in water and chopped (optional)

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1 large carrot, finely chopped

1 large celery rib, finely chopped

1 medium garlic clove, minced

¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

¼ pound skinless chicken or Italian pork sausage, chopped

½ pound lean ground beef

¼ pound lean ground pork

½ cup dry white wine

1 cup beef broth or chicken broth

2 tablespoon tomato paste

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Freshly grated nutmeg

Balsamella:

6 tablespoons (80g) unsalted butter

½ cup (80g) unbleached all-purpose flour

4 cups (1 quart) whole or 2% fat milk

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Freshly grated nutmeg

Spinach Pasta:

¾ pound fresh spinach, stemmed, cooked, squeezed dry and chopped

4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (about 600g)

4 extra-large eggs

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil

pinch of salt

Cheeses:

1 ¾ cups shredded mozzarella (about ½ pound)

1 ½ cups freshly grated parmesan cheese (about 5 ounces)

Combine the cheeses in a bowl.

Instructions:

Meat Sauce

1.      In a small bowl, soak the porcini in 1 ½ cup of lukewarm water until softened, about 30 minutes.

2.      Meanwhile, heat olive oil in large saucepan. Add onion, carrots, celery, garlic and parsley and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until soft... about 6 minutes.

3.      Add the chicken sausage, ground beef and pork to the vegetables in the pan. Cook over moderate heat, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until cooked through, about 6 minutes. Squeeze the porcini and chop, then add to the pan of meat and vegetables.

4.      Add the wine and simmer until almost evaporated, about a few minutes. Stir in 1 cup of the broth and tomato paste. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 10-12 minutes. Set aside in a warm place.

Balsamella (cream sauce)

1.      Heat the milk until hot in a medium sauce pan and set aside, but keep it hot.

2.      Melt the butter in a heavy medium saucepan until frothy. Add the flour and stir over moderate-low heat (don't let it brown) for a few minutes.

3.      Quickly add the hot milk to the butter and flour mixture, stirring constantly in the same direction with a wooden spoon to prevent lumps from forming.

4.      Bring to a boil over moderate heat while stirring, and simmer for few minutes. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Set aside keeping it warm, whisking occasionally.

Making the Spinach Pasta

1.      Bring a large pot of water with salt to a boil. Add the spinach and cook until very tender, about a few minutes. Drain, rinse in cold water and squeeze dry. Finely chop the spinach; you should have ½ (packed) cup.

2.      Mound the flour on work surface and make a well in the center. Add the eggs, spinach, 2 tablespoons olive oil and ½ teaspoon salt to the well and mix with a fork. 

3.      Gradually draw in the flour from the inner rim of the well until almost half has been incorporated. Begin kneading in the remaining flour, using the palms of your hands. Continue kneading until the dough is smooth.

4.      Cut the pasta dough into 4 equal pieces; work with 1 piece at a time and keep the remaining pieces of dough covered with a clean kitchen towel.

5.      Flatten the dough and dust it lightly with flour. Roll it through a pasta machine set on the widest setting. Fold the dough in thirds, press down, flour lightly and continue rolling the dough through the machine until the dough is very smooth.

6.      Lower the setting one or two notch and repeat the process, rolling the dough once through successively narrower settings until you reach the thinnest one.

7.      Drape the pasta sheet flat on clean kitchen towels. Roll out the remaining pieces of dough in the same manor.

8.      Bring a large pot of water (5-6 quarts) to a boil and add salt. Fill a large mixing bowl with cold water and 2 tablespoons olive oil.

9.      Meanwhile, using a large knife cut the sheet of pasta crosswise into 7-8 inch lengths.

10.   Drop 5 to 6 of the pasta pieces into the boiling water for 10 seconds. Transfer to the bowl of cold water to cool. Drain the cooked pasta pieces side by side on a damp kitchen towel. Repeat the process with remaining pasta, arranging the pieces on towels in a single layer.

Assembling the Lasagna

Preheat oven to 375°F.

1.      Generously butter a 9-by 12-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Spread 2 heaping tablespoons of meat sauce in the bottom of the dish. Cover the bottom and sides of the dish with slightly overlapping pasta pieces, allowing about 2-inches to hang over the edge of the dish.

2.      Spread one-third of the cream sauce and sprinkle some of the cheese mixture on top. Cover with another layer of pasta and spread half of meat sauce. Cover with another layer of the pasta, then cream sauce and sprinkle with cheese. Continue layering the pasta and the remaining meat sauce, then cover with pasta again, ending with a layer of cream sauce and cheese, covered with pasta. Fold the overhanging pasta over top of the lasagna.

3.      Cover the lasagna loosely with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake for another 15-20 minutes until the lasagna is heated through and the top is lightly browned.

4.      Let cool for 15 minutes at room temperature before serving.

Cheeses for Winter

These cheeses are all semi-firm or firm textured, made from cow's milk and produced in the mountains or highland regions of France and Switzerland. Dairy farming is one of the oldest food production practices, and highland regions are particularly famous for making good cheeses where pasture contains fresh green grasses and wildflowers, particularly during spring and summer.

These cheeses are often made into large wheels or cylinders (preserved for the cold winter), and some are massive. Swiss Emmental wheels can be 6-10 inches thick, 44 inches in diameter and weigh over 120 pounds! These cheeses are also cured and aged for a long time -- normally 3 months to over 12 months. They are traditionally made with raw milk, which has not been homogenized or cooked/pasteurized by high heat (meaning less shelf-life for the retailers). That is why they are so tasty!

Those who like firm Cheddar cheese textures may discover a new favorite among these European classics.  They also melt well, and Gruyere and Emmental are important in traditional Swiss Fondue. Cantal and Comete are good with baked potato or gratin dishes and hearty soups.  

Cantal (France)

This oldest of the French cheeses dates back to Roman times. The cheese is shaped like a cylinder, one foot in diameter and about 20 lbs. The two types of Cantal are Cantal fermier (farmhouse cheese using raw milk) and Cantal laitier (a mass-produced version). Recently, Cantal has appealed to more and more cheese lovers because of its natural, rustic, tangy flavor that isn't too sharp, just creamy and mild. It comes from Auvergne, a region known for its fertile pasture lands. The well-ripened Cantal has a bolder, more vigorous taste, while the younger versions are sweeter and more creamy.

Aligot is a famous regional dish of mashed potatoes mixed with Cantal. It is also great for French onion gratin soup (instead of Gruyère or Cometè) and for grilled cheese sandwiches. Recommended wines for pairing:  Cote d'Auvergne, Chateauguay, Vouvray, (moelleux [medium sweet] or demi-sec [medium dry]), Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc.

The Cantal in the picture was purchased at Whole Foods Market for $16.99 a pound. 

Comté (France)

 

Comté (also called Gruyere de Comté) is a cooked, pressed cow's milk cheese produced in the Jura mountains in the east of France. It has the largest production of any AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlée) cheese in France (just like AOC wine, but for specific cow’s milk, because areas of production are regulated). More than 50,000 tons of Comté are made each year. The depth of flavor experienced when you bite into a piece of Comté comes from the diversity of the milk sources (from cooperatives that buy milk from small farmers throughout the region).

Long ago, people of this mountainous region (as in Switzerland) were faced with the need to preserve food for the long winter. By pooling their resources (cow's milk), they could create cheese in large wheels that could be stored many months and feed a lot of people.The wheels still weigh about 80 pounds and require about 530 liters of milk (daily production of 30 cows). The long maturing period, called affinage, takes from 4 months to over 12 months, during which time the cheese is regularly cleaned and rubbed with salted water.

Comté cheese is firm-textured with a mellow, nutty flavor. It's great on its own or served with a dry white wine such as Sauvignon Blanc or a light red wine, and accompanied with nuts, dried fruits and a good rustic country bread. As with all cheese, it should be served at room temperature (you may need to bring it out from refrigerator at least a couple hours).  

The Comté in the photo above is aged 6 months and costs $10.99/lb. at Trader Joe’s.

Morbier (France)

Morbier is a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese from the Jura mountains. It is named after the small village Morbier (Swiss border) in France's Comté region. This uncooked cheese is pressed, ripened for two months and then brushed with salty water. It is easy to recognize by the dark stripe of ash separating it horizontally in the middle of the paste. The aroma is pungent and a bit strong, but the flavor is rich, sweet and a little nutty.  

Morbier cheese dates back more than two centuries. Producers of Comté wanted to make a smaller cheese for their own consumption with leftover milk from making Comté. Each night, soot/ash was sprinkled on the fresh curd that remained at the bottom of the barrel to prevent a rind from forming and keep insects away. The next day, another leftover piece of cheese was put on top to complete the Morbier. 

Try this cheese either straight or melted, served with a mild bread, nut and fruits . It will make all cheese lovers very happy! Recommended wines: Sauvignon Blanc, white wine from Jura and light red wine.

I purchased the cheese in the picture above at Whole Foods Market for $13.99/lb.

Fine, Affordable Bordeaux Wine

 





My recent picks of affordable wines at Trader Joe's are fine Bordeaux wines. The 2009 Chateau Meric ($9.95; left in the photo above) is a typical Medoc (region 1 on Bordeaux map) blended Cabernet Sauvignon wine with smooth/silky tannins, the aroma of ripe red fruits (blueberry and cherry) and a hint of vanilla. It has an attractive ruby color with a slight amber reflection. This wine should age well for the next few years but is deliciously ready to drink for this holiday season.

2004 Chateau de La Riviere ($14.95) is from a well-reputed, historic winery in Fronsac (region 12 on  map) and is a bargain. Fronsac "appellation" (the district where a wine's grapes were grown; e.g., Napa, Sonoma, etc.) is located west of St.-Emilion, next to Pomerol and has a reputation for great value in red Bordeaux wine. I love how this wine bursts with wonderful fruity aromas as soon as the bottle is uncorked, and its luscious, fine Merlot flavor. This wine needs to be decanted. "Decanting" is a way to remove the deposit of tannins and color pigments that build up in older wines. The bottle needs to be stood upright several hours before you start. Next, gently remove the cork and wipe around the neck to clean it, inside and out. Pour out all the wine slowly and carefully in one movement to transfer to a clean, clear glass bottle, pitcher or decanter, leaving just the sediment in the original bottle.

Trader Joe's sells the 2007 Chateau de la Riviere, but the 2004 is definitely a better wine, plus you have an opportunity to practice decanting.

More tips on storing, decanting and serving wine at the wineloverscellar.net.

Cheers!

2009 Chateau Meric, Medoc (above)

2004 Chateau de la Riviere:

Autumn Vegetables

Autumn is here at my farmers market. We are still having fairly warm and sunny days here in the Bay Area, but the change in season is evident in the market's offerings. Ben, an organic farmer, told me that he saw frost last week, and that means there may be no more tomatoes next week. Sure, it's already November -- we are spoiled living in California. The East Coast has already had a bad snow storm. Anyway, it's the season for squash, potatoes and Swiss chard, with apples coming and oranges in the next few months. 

I baked these small honey bear squash that Ben gave me with a little butter and salt. They are less sweet than pumpkin but have a firmer texture, like butternut squash. Very delicious!

Organic vegetables are great. They don't all have the same shape and color, and sometimes aren't so pretty, but they always taste great. I marinated these eggplants with olive oil and chopped garlic and grilled them. I want to make Moussaka this week.

Basil is almost at the end of its season. Time to can some pesto sauce to enjoy until next summer.

It's also season for persimmons.

I sauteed eggplant with onion, garlic and chopped Italian parsley for the topping of Bruschetta.

Sauteed eggplant on toasted Ciabatta bread. Mmmmm!

Easy Indian Curry

I enjoy Indian-style curry dishes quite often. I normally make vegetarian curry but sometimes I make chicken or lamb curry. It's great with boiled Basmati or Thai jasmine rice, or Naan (flat bread) when available. I also make Raita (yogurt sauce with vegetables or fruit) to serve with it. Now making curry is especially easy! You can buy curry sauce at Trader Joe's -- 15 oz jar for $2.29. Their Curry Simmer Sauce is milder and the Masala Simmer Sauce is darker and spicier. Both are fairly good products and inexpensive.

I normally use chopped onion or shallot, sliced carrot, zucchini and mushrooms. I sautee the vegetables for 5-6 minutes with a little vegetable oil, then pour in a whole jar of the sauce with a cup of water and simmer the curry for 15-20 minutes. That's it. You may use coconut milk or buttermilk instead of 1/2 cup water, which will make the curry richer and more flavorful.

Naan bread and cucumber-tomato-mint Raita